Some like them skinny, others prefer them plump. Yes, asparagus connoisseurs argue about whether fat or thin stalks are preferable. Those favoring the thin spears contend that they are more tender and cook faster, while those seeking the plumper stalks argue that the additional pulp adds tenderness that is missing in the thinner spears.
Pencil thin or those with cigar-size waistlines, the choice is yours.
As for removing the woody ends, my mother broke off the tough ends one by one, holding each spear at opposite ends and bending it gently in half until it snapped approximately at the point where the tender part begins. It was a practice that required patience, a Zen-like motion.
Me? I cut off the woody ends with one fell swoop of my short-bladed cleaver. A rubber band bound bunch at a time, I sever leather from luscious.
Choose stalks with tips that are closed and compact; partially opened or mushy tips are a sign of aging or mishandling. Choose stalks that are about the same size to attain even cooking. Refrigerate, unwashed, in a plastic bag and plan on using them within 2 to 3 days.
Roasted Spring Vegetables
Roasted vegetables are downright scrumptious. It’s an easy method that creates caramelization on the exterior, a beautiful browning that yields sweet flavor. The sweetness artfully masks any of a vegetable’s subtle vegetal edge. And it’s simple. In addition to the vegetables, all you need is some oil, salt and freshly ground pepper. Oh, and a toasty-hot oven.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
2 medium-size fresh fennel bulbs
1 1/2 pounds baby Dutch yellow potatoes
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt, such as kosher, and freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch thin asparagus, ends removed and discarded, cut diagonally into 3-inch lengths
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
DIRECTIONS
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
2. Trim fennel: Cut off fern-like green tops and, if desired, save for garnish. If root area is brown, make a very shallow cut to remove brown area at base (if you cut too deeply, the bulb won’t stay connected). Cut bulb in half from top to bottom. If core is thick, cut it out and discard it. Cut each half into 3 lengthwise wedges.
3. Cut potatoes in half lengthwise. Place potatoes and fennel on rimmed baking sheet. Toss with olive oil and season with a little salt. Roast 30 minutes or until potatoes are tender, tossing fennel and potatoes halfway through cooking time.
4. Add asparagus and gently toss. Roast 10 to 15 more minutes or until asparagus is tender and starting to brown on the tips. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.
Source: Adapted from “Barefoot Contessa Back to Basics” by Ina Garten (Clarkson Potter, $35)
Asparagus with Tarragon Vinaigrette
Blanched asparagus drizzled with a delicious vinaigrette is an irresistible dish. I like this simple tarragon dressing; fresh tarragon lends a gentle hint of licorice along with a notes of citrus. Be sure to use fresh tarragon because the dried version lacks character. For this version I garnished the dressed asparagus with a few slivers of red bell pepper. If you prefer, some chopped toasted almonds can stand in for the bell pepper. Or for a French version, garnish with a hard-cooked egg, pushing the peeled egg through a coarse-mesh sieve. Serve at room temperature. End of recipe
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
About 1 1/2 pounds medium asparagus, tough bottom trimmed off and discarded
2 tablespoons Sherry vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons finely diced shallots
3/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon
Garnish: 1/2 red bell pepper, seeded, cut into strips.
DIRECTIONS
1. Using either a large deep skillet or large pot that is wide enough to accommodate the asparagus to lay flat, bring enough water to cover the asparagus to a boil on high heat. Cook just long enough for the asparagus to be tender-crisp; cooking times vary according to width of asparagus, generally 3 to 5 minutes. Keep an eye on it and be careful not to overcook it. Transfer to colander in the sink. Top with a few ice cubes and run cold water on it. Drain well.
2. Prepare the vinaigrette. In a small bowl or small glass measuring cup, combine vinegar and salt; stir to dissolve salt. Add shallots, Dijon mustard, and pepper. Stir with a fork to combine. Add oil in thin stream, stirring with the fork to combine. Add tarragon and stir to combine.
3. Place asparagus on a rimmed platter. Garnish with bell pepper strips. Stir vinaigrette and spoon over asparagus.
Asparagus Lasagna
Asparagus and pasta are a perfect couple; they create a luscious contrast in flavors and textures, especially when bound with a creamy goat cheese-spiked sauce for an irresistible lasagna.
Sometimes I prepare the dish in two 8- or 9-inch square baking pans, but I love the more glamourous look of patchworking it into one large gratin dish. A few times I have layered in cooked-and-crumbled Italian sausage. It’s delicious that way, but I think omitting the meat shows off the asparagus to its best advantage.
Yield: About 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
4 pounds asparagus, tough bottom portion trimmed and discarded
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt to taste
8 ounces “no-boil” or “oven ready” lasagna noodles; see cook’s notes
1/4 cup ( 1/2 stick) butter, cut into 4 pieces
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups chicken broth, see cook’s notes
1/2 cup water
7 ounces soft goat cheese
1 to 2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest (colored portion of peel)
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
One and one-third cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese, divided use
1 cup chilled heavy whipping cream
Pinch of salt
Optional garnish: sprigs of Italian (flat-leaf) parsley
Cook’s notes: You can use standard lasagna noodles, but they will require cooking and draining before assembling the lasagna. If you prefer, substitute 2 cups of vegetable broth for 1 1/2 cups of chicken stock and 1/2 cup water. Sometimes I prepare the dish in two 8- or 9-inch square baking pans, but I love the more glamourous look of patchworking it into one large gratin dish. A few times I have layered in cooked-and-crumbled Italian sausage. It’s delicious that way, but I think omitting the meat shows off the asparagus to its best advantage.
Can be made 2 days before (and stored airtight in the refrigerator) without the final addition of whipped cream and Parmesan cheese. The whipped cream needs to be added just before baking. You probably will need to add 3 to 5 minutes to the baking time but check to make sure the top isn’t getting too brown. If it starts to get too brown, tent with a sheet of aluminum foil.
DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Cut the tender tips off the asparagus and reserve. Place asparagus stalks on 2 rimmed baking sheets. Drizzle olive oil over the top of asparagus, and shake pans to coat asparagus. Place asparagus in the oven for 10 minutes, switching the pan positions from top rack to bottom halfway through roasting and giving the pans a shake to rotate the asparagus. Remove from oven and sprinkle with salt to taste.
2. Meanwhile, soak lasagna noodles in cold water for 20 minutes (it is best to separate them and scatter them in a large bowl or pan so they won’t stick together). As you use the pasta, lift each piece from the water and let it drain. Turn oven to 400 degrees.
3. In a large saucepan on medium heat, melt the butter. Add the flour and stir over medium heat for 3 minutes (do not brown). Remove from heat and, using a wire whisk, beat in broth and water in a thin stream. Return to medium heat and simmer to thicken it for about 6 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from heat and add goat cheese, lemon peel and salt to taste; using a wire whisk, mix until blended and smooth. Stir in basil.
4. Cut asparagus stalks into 1- to 1 1/2-inch pieces. Spray with nonstick olive oil spray or butter a 9-by-15-inch oval gratin baking dish (or two 8-inch or 9-inch square baking dishes). Arrange single layer of pasta in pan(s). Top with one-third of sauce. Top with one-third cup of roasted asparagus pieces and one-third cup grated Parmesan cheese. Continue to layer the pasta/sauce/asparagus/Parmesan — to create two more layers. Top with a layer of pasta.
5. In a large bowl, beat the whipping cream with a pinch of salt until it holds soft peaks. Spread on final layer of pasta and top with reserved asparagus tips. Top with one-third cup grated Parmesan cheese. Bake in middle of a preheated 400-degree oven for 20 to 30 minutes, or until golden and bubbling. Allow pasta to cool for 15 minutes before serving. If desired, garnish with sprigs of fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley.
Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at @CathyThomas Cooks.com.
