Bees and cups of tea are two of my favourite things.
And luckily for me, the islanders of Tiree and Coll are just as enthusiastic and embrace the natural beauty of their surroundings to produce both.
Part of Scotland’s Hebridean Small Isles, these two beauties are full of wildflowers, birds, marine life and insects and plenty of machair, a fertile and low lying grassy plain, which is unique to this corner of Europe.
It provides plenty of fodder for another island rarity, the giant yellow bumble bee and an enterprising tea producer Rhoda Meek.
The bee, distinctive for its yellow brown colouring with a wedge of black hair between its wings, is one of the UK’s lesser spotted, having declined 80 % over the last century. But it loves to feed on machair and so Tiree and Coll are hot chomping spots.
Plenty of secluded beaches to visit
Co-owner of Tiree Tea, one of Rhoda’s most popular cuppas is machair, in a nod to the environmental gem which stretches down to the shores of Tiree and Coll and in the summer is carpeted in sweet wildflowers. A herbal infusion which sets the taste buds tickling, this tea is certainly worth a try.
Both the islands are accessible by air, but there is something magic about arriving by boat and the three hour, 40 minute sail from Oban via CalMac Ferries, affords lovely views en route.
First stop for me and fellow travellers, Ruaridh, 16, and Flossie, 13, was 13 mile long Coll. Home to 30 lovely secluded white beaches , it really is a wonderful spot.
Literally two minutes drive from the small port, is the main settlement of Arinagour, the hub of the island and at this time of the year, home to the most adorable lambs and ewes, who have right of way over the traffic and simply stop to rest wherever they want, from the middle of the road to someone’s garden!
Friendly locals rub along nicely with visitors, many who come for the solitude, bird life and to enjoy its status as a dark sky island.
Take a seafari trip
A 15 minute drive from the centre takes you to the RSPB reserve , which was built to protect the island’s most precious visitor, the corncrake, which is often easy to hear, but hard to spot.
Ben Hogh at 339 foot, is Coll’s highest point and it’s here you can capture the most breath-taking views.
Out at sea, there is a plethora of whales, basking sharks, porpoises, dolphins, puffins, gannets and gulls and a trip out on a seafari with Tiree Sea Tours, is a wonderful way of spending a few hours.
Leaving from the old pier in Coll, an exhilarating ride on a rib boat, flies you across the sea and it’s a lucky dip as to what you will see, but it’s a lovely ride along the coastline. It also allows you to spot secluded houses, such as the one which used to be owned by author Mairi Hedderwick, best known for her children’s story “Katie Morag” and her adventures on the fictional island of Struay.
Around 150 people live on Coll and one of the nicest characters is Paula Smalley , owner of the Tigh na Mara bed and breakfast and self catering, just up from the ferry pier. Orginally from Lancashire,
Paula provides true Northern hospitality, with well appointed rooms and a scrumptious breakfast. The Island Café and Coll Hotel are also great places to try out the local seafood platters.
Plenty to do on Tiree
But it’s the great outdoors which entices you every time, and on Tiree, there are more wonderful beaches (you become so blasé!) to enjoy. It’s a pretty windy island too, which is great for wind surfers and a brilliant place to learn the skills is at Wild Diamond Watersports, run by Willy and Kirsty McLean at Loch Bhasapol in Cornaig.
The couple have 25 years plus experience and offer a range of watersports, with the wind surfing made easier (well for the younger ones!) as the loch is relatively shallow.
In recent years the island has been the setting for the popular Tiree Music Festival, however the event earlier this month was cancelled at the last minute due to strong winds and rain.
Every October, the world’s best compete in the Tiree Wave Classic windsurfing competition and the 12 mile island is filled with visitors. With no woodland and a flat landscape, there is nothing to block your view and one of the most popular walks is along the golden sands at Gott Bay.
Scarinish Beach is home to a small hotel, with the most delightful views, clean and airy rooms and a modern cuisine restaurant.
Tiree has two small museums and a modern piece of art, the An Turas, by the CalMac pier office, to see, so there is something for everyone on the two islands, but for me it still has to be the bees and teas……
Factfile
For more information go to:
- visitscotland.com
- visittiree.com
- visitcoll.co.uk
