The Leathes Head

Midway up Borrowdale – arguably the Lake District’s most attractive valley – the hotel is surrounded by sheep-dotted fields with uninterrupted views of the fells. Despite this tranquil setting, Keswick, with its twice-weekly market, cafés and Derwentwater launches (the lake’s traditional wooden cruise-boats), is only four miles from Leathes Head. The launches can also be boarded at the landing-stage at the head of the lake, which is a leisurely 20-minute walk. Many guests are here for the fell-walking – Great Gable, Scafell Pike, Skiddaw and Cat Bells, amongst others, are all easily reached – as well as lower-level routes around the lake. Honister Slate Mine, which offers tours and a Via Ferrata experience, is a 20-minute drive at the head of the valley.

Leathes Head occupies a large, Edwardian country house built of local slate which sits back from the valley road on a slight knoll. The property is solid and unshowy, with a gentle mix of period elegance and subtle contemporary style. There's a spacious entrance hall with a handsome staircase and strikingly patterned tile floor (nothing so vulgar as a reception desk, just a console table instead); to the left a light and comfortably traditional sitting-room with log-burning stove; and to the right a modern bistro-style dining-room which spills into a conservatory. Both of these rooms have mesmerising views. Modern artwork adds a splash of colour while the small bar, with its custom-made oak stools, sea-green panelled-walls and slate counter, adds an unexpectedly chic note. Throughout, the atmosphere is welcoming and quietly gracious without fuss nor frills.

The hotel’s star feature is its view which can be enjoyed from many rooms but particularly from the conservatory dining-room, sitting-room and front terrace. Facing west, the latter is perfect for pre-dinner drinks. The three acres of gardens and woodland, including a pond, bog garden and wildflower areas, encourage wildlife; woodpeckers, pheasants, ducks, butterflies and red squirrels can all be spotted. Binoculars – and sketching books – are available for guests to use. For the active, there are maps to borrow, secure bicycle storage, packed lunches and drying facilities for wet boots and clothing. The small, multi-tasking team are relaxed and friendly, yet quietly professional, and have good local knowledge which they are only too happy to share.

Rooms are divided between classic country-house and more contemporary styles with the latter mainly in an unobtrusive 1970s extension at the back of the hotel. These rear rooms have a neat and simple look with oak or pine furniture, smart feature wallpapers, neutral carpets and splashy cushions and throws to give a pop of colour. Rooms in the original house are spoilingly large with a pale-toned traditional décor, solid-wood furniture, big headboards, deep armchairs and large windows. Both room types are comfortable rather than stylish, though bathrooms are sleek and modern – most with natural light, some with spa-baths – and all rooms have captivating views, the best of which are from the main house.

Together with the peace and the local walking, the quality of food is the hotel’s main draw. The no-choice, five-course set menu (£50 to £59, vegetarian option available) offers skilful and creative dishes without unnecessary pretention. Combinations are precise, flavour-balanced – perhaps you'll eat king prawns with heritage carrots and lime leaf oil or chicken Wellington with truffle Dauphinoise and wild mushrooms – and simply presented. Neither too big nor too small they leave room for puddings, which are just the right combination of sweet and tart, such as a rhubarb sorbet in a cocoa butter shell with a ginger ice cream. Everything, including bread and pasta, is made in-house while the wine list is comprehensive yet reasonably priced with plenty under £40. 

Breakfast, to be chosen the night before, is waiter-served and offers a small but attractive cold selection followed by a decent cooked choice that includes eggs Benedict as well as the full Cumbrian with a vegetarian option.

Double rooms from £110 in low season; and from £150 in high. Breakfast included.

One room is wheelchair accessible, but not fully adapted.

No, it’s adults-only.