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Nothing to hide: freemasons open doors to Grand Lodge

The secretive order with royal connections wants to make its premises in Edinburgh’s George Street a tourist destination — and event venue
The Freemasons’ Hall “is a hidden gem in the middle of Edinburgh”
The Freemasons’ Hall “is a hidden gem in the middle of Edinburgh”

It has long been regarded as a chamber of secrets, but Scotland’s freemasons now want to transform their headquarters into a major visitor attraction.

The Grand Lodge of Scotland’s ornate premises in the heart of Edinburgh have been largely off limits to the non-initiated since they opened in 1912.

But now, in an attempt to shore up its finances and dispel misconceptions, the all-male organisation — known for its arcane and theatrical rituals — is actively encouraging outsiders to come in and find out more.

“The doors have been closed for far too long,” admitted William Semple, grand secretary of the Grand Lodge of Antient and Free and Accepted Masons of Scotland. “We need to get the message out there that we are absolutely open. Freemasons’ Hall is a hidden gem in the middle of Edinburgh.

William Semple, grand secretary of the Grand Lodge of Antient and Free and Accepted Masons of Scotland
William Semple, grand secretary of the Grand Lodge of Antient and Free and Accepted Masons of Scotland
IAN RUTHERFORD

“We want to bring people in here, show them the magnificent architecture and facilities that we have and allow them to ask any questions they have got about Scottish freemasonry.”

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The full details of their unique handshakes and initiation rites, which involve blindfolds — known as hoodwinks — and raised trouser legs, are likely to remain shrouded in mystery. However, Semple insists they have nothing to hide.

“Other than some areas, which are not open for health and safety reasons, there is nothing off limits to visitors,” he said. “When people come to visit they will see whatever is here at that time.”

They are also keen to host weddings, corporate events, concerts, theatrical performances and parties at the George Street premises.

The freemasons say the hall is underused
The freemasons say the hall is underused
ALAMY

“We are looking to develop Freemasons’ Hall into a major venue in Edinburgh that is available and open to people in Scotland and people travelling into Scotland,” Semple said.

“It’s a great venue in the heart of one of the best streets in one of the best cities in the world. However, it’s been underused and a lot of people don’t know what exists beyond their front doors.

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“It’s time for that to change.”

The lodge is advertising for tour guides to welcome groups from around the globe and plans to hire a heritage and education specialist. Semple insists they need not be a member of “the craft”.

“That role is absolutely open to the right person,” he said. “Whether they are a woman or a man, or indeed a freemason, doesn’t matter.”

George VI hebriefly took up the role of Scotland’s grand master mason in 1936
George VI hebriefly took up the role of Scotland’s grand master mason in 1936
IAN RUTHERFORD

In March the lodge confirmed it had amended its constitution to allow the joining age to be lowered from 21 to 18.

“We have got to change if we are going to survive,” Semple said. “We are also making it easier for younger people to be able to afford to join Scottish freemasonry.”

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The Sunday Times was invited on a tour of lodge headquarters. Bill Jackson, a retired British Telecom employee and veteran mason, was our guide.

He allowed himself a chuckle after ushering us into the offices of the grand master mason, Dr Joseph Morrow KC, a former Dundee Labour councillor who also holds the title of Lord Lyon King of Arms — a role which saw him participate in last year’s coronation.

“You can go ahead and take pictures,” he said. “The only thing you are not allowed to do is to drink the grand master mason’s whisky.”

Bill Jackson  shows visitors around the Freemasons Hall in Edinburgh
Bill Jackson shows visitors around the Freemasons Hall in Edinburgh
IAN RUTHERFORD

The newly redeveloped grand hall was set up to host a meeting of the Royal Order of Scotland, a historic masonic group which traces its roots back to the 14th century and Robert the Bruce.

A crown is perched on a throne-like chair next to a red ermine cloak, but they are unlikely to ever be worn.

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“That empty chair is for the King of Scotland,” Jackson explains. “He remains, symbolically, as the head of the order.”

The lodge’s greatest treasures, however, are housed in its library.

Framed and showing the signs of its venerable age is a masonic apron that was worn by Robert Burns as a member of the Lodge St Andrews No 179 (Dumfries) until his death, aged just 37, in 1796.

Robert Burns’s masonic apron is on display at the hall
Robert Burns’s masonic apron is on display at the hall
IAN RUTHERFORD

In a neighbouring room is regalia worn by the future King George VI when he briefly took up the role of Scotland’s grand master mason in 1936. In May the Duke of Kent, 88, unveiled a portrait of his uncle, wearing a kilt and full masonic regalia, at the Edinburgh building.

“We wanted the duke to come as a member of the royal family and a freemason,” Semple said. “We are proud of the royal connection.”

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Under glass in the museum is a handwritten letter that the then Duke of Kent wrote after become head of the Grand Lodge, just weeks before taking the throne.

It shows that George, who famously overcame a stammer to address his subjects, feared making errors during his installation at Edinburgh’s Usher Hall.

“I was somewhat nervous about it before as I knew the ritual was different,” he wrote. “I hope that I did not make too many mistakes.”