128 Whiteladies Road, Bristol; 0117 973 7384. Mon-Sat, lunch, noon-2.30pm; dinner, 6pm-10.30pm
Five stars caviar Four stars oysters Three stars cod Two stars fish paste One star red herring
I went to Bristol last week. It must be 20 years since I set foot in the city, but I've always had a soft spot for the place. Growing up in Somerset, it was the closest thing to urban glamour that we had. Bristol had an ice rink and a university, a concert hall, inner-city riots and a Baskin-Robbins ice cream parlour serving 31 flavours. But it was also a properly West Country town. Born-and-bred Bristolians pronounced their Rs with a reassuring rustic burr. A lot of them still do, though the linguistic Brizzle quirk of