Restaurant review: Marina O’Loughlin on Club Gascon, Smithfield, London

I am not generally pole-axed with jealousy towards the yoof — the age I find myself now is just fine, thanks. But I do get a bit green-eyed checking out a dining scene significantly geared towards young people. Poor millennials and their younger siblings have little hope of buying their own property — in London, especially, home ownership is an impossible fantasy for many, filed alongside becoming Mrs Harry Styles, and not helped by being loftily instructed to give up buying sandwiches if they want to stand a chance. So, income is dedicated instead to experiences: travel, restaurants, events — insta-shareable conspicuous consumption. If someone had told the 20-year-old me that a night out in the capital would now involve queuing for everything from arepas