So I do some groundwork: having covered myself in the perfume, I pace territorially around the E’Spa counter with the new E’Spa eau de parfum held to my nose. Olfactorily, I am keen but amateur, a kind of Bisto kid of crud. I’ve been told the unisex perfume is a mix of frankincense, rosemary, thyme, patchouli, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove and lavender and I’d like to find a word, a clever, evocative bon mot, that sums it up. The beauty editor of Vogue has said it reminds her of “church”. I can only come up with: the scent of one of the Wise Men eating roast lamb with an old hippie and an American, both of whom have a fondness for mulled wine and summers in