Offbeat, bohemian and always entertaining, Iceland’s capital is a fitting reflection of a country moulded by extremes. Situated in the southwest of the island, the city is a logical starting point for a tour of the explosive geysers and thundering waterfalls of the Golden Circle. But as a standalone destination it deserves a few days of exploring before you continue on a self-drive holiday along the ring road. Music spills from lively bars, art galleries brim with eccentric creations and the forces of nature are never far away.
This article contains links from which we may earn revenue. These links are signposted with an asterisk. More information here.
What to do
After landing at Keflavik Airport, via a reviving pit-stop at the geothermal waters of the Blue Lagoon*, it’s a short 40-minute drive to Reykjavik city. In a sparsely populated country, this is where most human activity happens, with a chance to sample local cuisine, meet interesting characters, and find out what life in Iceland is really like.
There are dozens of museums to visit, ranging from cultural to quirky. An excellent introduction to Norse history and Nordic living, the National Museum* will bring any destination newbies up to speed through more than 2,000 artefacts, including a pine door from 1150.
Contemporary Icelandic art is best showcased at the Reykjavik Art Museum (split over three sites in Hafnarhus, Kjarvalsstadir and Asmundarsafn), while Perlan* explains the volcanic island’s fire and ice formation, using interactive displays such as a 100m Ice Cave built with 350 tonnes of snow.
Advertisement
Few urbanites can boast to have sea giants as neighbours, but in the nutrient-rich Faxafloi bay, minke whales, humpbacks and dolphins swim almost up to front doors. From April to October, whale-watching boat tours depart daily from the harbour. You’ll have to travel a little further for Iceland’s other great natural phenomenon; escaping light pollution, northern lights tours depart from the city centre and head out of town.
Where to stay
In a capital so compact it can easily be criss-crossed on foot, most of the action happens in Downtown — an area known by its postcode, 101. Ideal for first timers, it’s where most key sites are set: the rocket-shaped Church of Hallgrimur soars above a grid of rainbow-roofed houses, while the striking glass-cubed Harpa Concert Hall sits harbourside.
From the art deco grande dame Hotel Borg* to the bohemian budget Kex Hostel*, most tourist hotels are clustered here. Hang out in hip cafés, admire street art or browse crafts in boutique shops along main street Laugavegur.
Sleepier than neighbouring 101, Hlidar, or 105, is still only 15 minutes’ walk away. Cheaper hotels such as 105 — A Townhouse Hotel* are close to the green oasis of City Park Klambratun, where part of the Reykjavik Art Museum can be found tucked away, along with the artificially heated waters of Nautholsvik beach.
Loved by students and locals, Vesturbaer (West Town) is close to the water, with aquatic attractions such Whales of Iceland and its life-size models of ocean giants within easy reach of the Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina*.
Advertisement
Leafy and laid-back Laugardalur in the northern part of the city, meanwhile, is the best option for families. Reykjavik’s largest outdoor thermal pool, Laugardalslaug, was founded at the city’s original hot springs. Hotel Island*, Iceland’s first dedicated wellness and healthcare hotel, has opened close by.
Food and drink
For a small city, Reykjavik likes to live large. Bars boom and restaurants buzz along Downtown’s Laugavegur street, where a multigenerational melting pot shares craft beers and stories long into the night. Occupying one of the oldest buildings in town, revamped with a theatrical interior, Mikkeller & Friends has an impressive 20 beers on tap. Or try Micro Bar in the basement of Restaurant Reykjavik. Trendier drinking dens such as Slippbarinn are hidden inside hotels.
The first and only Icelandic restaurant to receive a Michelin star, Dill has been flying the Nordic food flag for some time. Book ahead for a table at the small industrial-styled space on Laugavegur Street. Foraged ingredients are the focus of an unorthodox fine-dining menu celebrating Icelandic traditions, costing about £80. In a land wrapped by water, fresh fish is abundant, giving rise to several sushi restaurants around town. Close to the water, Fish Harbour was a pioneer and is still one of the best places to try it.
Beyond the formal restaurant scene, there are places for casual dining. Popular with a young, upbeat lunchtime crowd, Hlemmur Food Hall has revived a run-down district with a colourful collection of stalls selling tacos, pizzas, Icelandic lamb dishes and gourmet burgers — all inside a former bus terminal.
Even cheaper are the hot dogs from the harbourside stall Baejarins Beztu Pylsur, serving customers for more than 80 years. Made from free-range, organic and hormone-free lamb and topped with sweet ketchup, the celebrated snacks cost less than £3 and can be ordered until 4.30am.
Don’t miss
Advertisement
Stretch imaginations at Hellisgerdi Park, a mass of moss-covered lava formations, where elves, trolls and fairytale creatures allegedly reside. It’s on the city outskirts, about 10km from the centre.
Know before you go
Practically everyone speaks English in Iceland and tourists are welcomed. Combined with low crime rates, this makes the country well suited to solo travellers — although you’ll need a car to get beyond the city limits and explore the famous ring road. Although Iceland is a year-round destination, winters (November to February) can be bleak and windy. Long nights, however, are best for viewing northern lights. Most festivals and events run during summer months when mountain passes reopen to reach hiking trails.
The currency is Icelandic krona and the cost of living is high. Alcohol, only available in bars, restaurants and government stores, is heavily taxed, so stocking up at the duty free in airport arrivals is advisable.
Take me there
Inspired to visit Reykjavik but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Tui* and Jet2 Holidays*. These are the best tours of Reykjavik from our trusted partners*.
Sign up for the Times Travel Newsletter here.