Art, food and nightlife scenes are Madrid’s biggest draws: it has a world-class glut of galleries, hosting works by old masters; a tapas scene to die for; and — so the legend goes — more bars or bodegas than anywhere else on earth.
Chief temptations aside, what’s next? Spain’s capital ranks among Europe’s leafiest cities courtesy of an array of ornate parks and escapist gardens. It’s one of the continent’s sunniest too, enjoying more cloudless days per year than almost any other city.
The Madrileño architecture executes a similar charm offensive. There’s no landmark structure here, but you can expect medieval mansions, 19th-century palaces and flamboyant Belle Époque confections. Keep an eye out for apartments on focal Plaza Mayor — a sudden aperture after Centro’s dense lanes, and always abuzz with energy — or the elegant clock tower crowning sister square Puerta del Sol.
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What to do
Madrid’s fabled gallery scene is most well known for its “Golden Triangle of Art”, comprising the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, the Centro de Arte Reina Sofía and the immense Prado Museum. Collectively, the trio tick off Velázquez and Goya, contemporary Spanish greats including Picasso and Dalí, assorted Flemish or Italian masters and a mix of modern icons.
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You’ll find fewer leading lights at Real Madrid’s home ground, the towering Santiago Bernabéu Stadium, but it remains well worth visiting — with or without Beckham et al.
More into shopping than football? Department stores line main street Gran Vía, but Madrid’s most influential fashion boutiques cluster in the ritzy Salamanca barrio. South of Plaza Mayor, ancient quarter La Latina is where El Rastro, the biggest flea market, takes place every Sunday.
Madrid’s many parks stand by whenever rest is required. Handily close to the Prado is El Retiro, which fuses formal gardens with wide grassy spaces. Alternatively, if you — or more likely, the kids — still have energy to burn, make for the northeastern suburbs and Parque Warner’s movie-themed thrills and spills.
Where to stay
Hotels, hostels and homestays are spread liberally across the city, with options for every budget in almost every barrio. As always, however, certain areas will suit certain needs.
Salamanca impresses luxury travellers by accompanying its jewellery and shoe stores with exclusive, opulent hotels. Equally good for lavish getaways is the treelined Paseo del Prado. Across its namesake park, the Retiro neighbourhood is quiet yet still central, making it appealing for families. So too is Chamberí, a once-traditional northern quarter that’s gently gotten cool — courtesy of little designer shops and modish tapas bars — of late.
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North of Gran Vía, Madrid’s chief thoroughfare, are the two most alternative and gregarious barrios: westerly Malasaña and Chueca, home of Madrid Pride. Stay here if on-trend vegan eats, people-watching or great nightlife are important to you. Hip hostels and design hotels abound.
Centro also has lots of budget stays. For more of a genuine neighbourhood vibe, choose southerly La Latina or Lavapiés. Multicultural and rather bohemian, the latter’s narrow streets specialise in accomplished street art — with walking tours offering a good introduction.
Food and drink
Occupying a covered iron-and-glass hall that hosted Madrid’s original food market, stalls at the rebooted Mercado de San Miguel sell artisan hams, oysters, paella or croquettes. Very popular are banderillas — snack-tastic skewers usually involving olives and peppers.
Elsewhere, between such specialist examples of regional Spanish cooking as Galician marisquerías (seafood bars), the trademark local dish is a warming, meaty chickpea stew called cocido madrileño. Tapas-wise, aim to try a bocadillo de calamares — a battered-squid baguette.
Several of Spain’s top chefs — Oscar Velasco, Ramón Freixa, Paco Roncero — operate flagship restaurants in Madrid. If you’re budgeting, try Asian-Med fusion “street food” by acclaimed chef David Muñoz at StreetXO, part of a scenic food court atop the Corte Inglés department store. More traditional is Sobrino de Botín — the world’s oldest restaurant, according to Guinness World Records — which has been operating from the same La Latina spot since 1725.
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Non-stop marcha (partying) is the unofficial motto of Madrid nights. Though Malasaña, Chueca and Lavapiés are its best barrios for bar action, the city’s cocktail strongholds tend to be central — such as Gran Vía’s pioneering, art deco Museo Chicote — or in the literary quarter Las Letras.
Don’t miss
Adjoining two of Madrid’s lesser-visited art stops are a pair of similarly overlooked gardens. One is beside La Latina’s grandly domed Basilica of San Francisco el Grande. Go inside and you’ll find yet more of Goya’s gloomy works; veer around to the left and a dahlia-dotted viewpoint over the city offers heaps more cheer. Up in Chamberí, inside an enchanting old mansion, a museum showcases works by Joaquín Sorolla. A champion of light-focused Luminist paintings, he also designed its surrounding, prettily pastoral jardín.
Madrid is within striking distance of a number of other sightseeing hotspots.Half an hour away by direct trains are Segovia, with its colossal Roman aqueduct and Disney-esque castle, and former hilltown capital Toledo, immortalised by El Greco. Then there’s El Escorial, a royal family residence-cum-monastery-cum mausoleum, and La Granja’s mountain-set Palacio Real. Also a royal palace, it pairs one of the world’s most-prized tapestry collections with parkland featuring mythological fountains.
Know before you go
Spain uses the euro. For around 15 of them you’ll get a ten-ticket pass — loaded on to complimentary Tarjeta Multi smartcards — for Madrid’s bus and metro networks. The 11-line metro is very comprehensive. When venturing to a busy area or market, stay mindful of pickpockets and phone-grabbers.
This being Spain, food is commonly eaten later than Brits are used to. Most bars and restaurants open earlier to accommodate tourists, but if you crave some authentic bustle, aim to have lunch, usually the biggest meal of the day, from 2pm, and then dinner no earlier than 9pm.
Take me there
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Inspired to visit Madrid but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Tui and BA Holidays. These are the best tours of Madrid from our trusted partners.
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