Antalya is the capital of the Turkish Riviera and was once a compact port city. But, since the arrival of package tourism in the 1970s, it’s ballooned into a sprawl of all-inclusive resorts, theme parks and shopping malls along a crystalline coast. Roughly 13 million tourists arrive through its international airport each year, and most head straight to hotels where they’ll do little more than lie on a private beach for a fortnight. That is fine; there are worse places in the world to kick back. The weather is consistently glorious from April to October, the sand is soft and golden, and the sea is warm and safe in most places. But peel back Antalya’s layers and you’ll uncover a historic and too-often overlooked city centre, and mesmerising natural beauty in its national parks. As a bonus, forgo the easy hedonism of the resorts and you’ll be escaping the crowds too; in many places off the tourist-beaten track you’ll find yourself a minority among Turks enjoying their own country — surely the very best endorsement there is.
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What to do
If you have little ones, spend a day or two tiring them out at a water park — there are several to choose from, all close to the city centre. Looking for more of a nature-focused thrill? Watch baby turtles hatching at one of many nesting grounds along this stretch of the coast. You’ll only see them if you’re visiting in late season, and it’s a night-time activity, so be prepared to stay up late and bring a jacket.
Scuba dive among submerged statues of whirling dervishes, soldiers and ancient gods at the underwater museum in Side* — they may look as though they’ve been down there for decades, but despite the spooky atmosphere this is a relatively new attraction, which opened in 2015. Rather stay on dry land? Go hiking among 2,000-year-old cedars in the dazzling Ciglikara nature reserve.
You’ll also find waterfalls in the local area; the most famous is the 18-metre Kursunlu falls around 12 miles outside the city, in a pine forest that’s rich in wildlife and gloriously cool even in midsummer. For a longer day trip, head south to Sakaz and Ceneviz, a pair of villages accessible only by boat and two of the top spots to see endangered Mediterranean monk seals.
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Where to stay
Belek*, close to the city centre and the airport, is the place to stay for convenience and is packed with all-inclusive resorts and private beaches. If you’re not fussed about being right on the beach, consider the old town neighbourhood of Kaleici*, literally “inside the fortress”; it has the feel of a hidden sanctuary within the historic city walls. South on the peninsula is laid-back Cirali* with a bohemian vibe. Here there are small hotels, holiday bungalows and even treehouses for rent. In the other direction, Side* is a modern resort town built among a sprinkling of ancient ruins, with plenty of resorts studded along the seafront. If you’re prepared to travel, leave the crowds behind at Kas*: the furthest part of the province with some of the best beaches in Turkey. Finally there’s Kalkan*, the main town in the area, which is a whitewashed idyll full of small bed and breakfasts — even the larger resorts have a boutique feel.
Food and drink
The local cuisine is based around fish and fresh vegetables and Antalya is the centre of Turkish tomato-growing. You’ll find plenty of meyhanes, traditional restaurants where you can while away an evening over endless shared plates of mezze. The best can be found in the old city, where there’s an ebullient Mediterranean atmosphere that never leaves its pavement cafés and narrow streets.
For a light lunch try piyaz, a bean salad that’s usually served as a side elsewhere in Turkey, but becomes the main event in Antalya. It’s fresh and simple, served with onions and parsley, soaked in a tahini and lemon juice sauce and with sumac sprinkled on top. Look out for restaurants dedicated to the dish around town.
Go for a wander and you’ll see street sellers serving a snack called tirmis, a soaked yellow legume that you peel before popping in your mouth. It’s labour intensive and the taste isn’t for everyone, but the locals rave about it and a bag will set you back less than 50p.
Don’t miss
The Karain cave on the slopes of Samdagi Mountain. Filled with stalactites and stalagmites, the cave is just a short drive from Antalya town and is believed to have been inhabited for 25,000 years, from the Paleolithic era to the Bronze Age. You’ll also discover a range of archaeological relics from the bones of elephants and hippopotamuses to bears and humans.
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Take the cable car up the Olympos Mountain*, around 30 miles south of the city, to get a panoramic view of one of the loveliest parts of the province. And, if you are in town in early September, book tickets for the Elmali oil wrestling festival, around 40 miles inland from Kas: this is one of Turkey’s oddest, but most fiercely contested, traditional sports and you shouldn’t miss your chance to get a front-row seat.
Know before you go
The local currency is the lira, and international cards are accepted everywhere. This part of Turkey is extremely liberal, bar the fact that topless sunbathing is illegal, and you can wear anything unless you want to enter a mosque; where you should opt for something that goes over the knees and bring a jacket to cover your shoulders. Don’t be tempted to take home any relics you might come across — it’s a crime to do so, and Brits have been landed in prison for it. If you do find anything old-looking, hand it in to the authorities. Be careful when driving; the roads are narrow and winding around the coast, and Turks like to drive fast.
Take me there
Inspired to visit Antalya but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Tui* and British Airways*.
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