A chaotic metropolis that is home to 16 million people, Istanbul is a city that straddles both cultures and continents. The historic city sprawls in all directions with many modern touches, yet is home to neighbourhoods that retain the charm of small villages. There’s something here for everyone — whether you want to soak up culture, learn about religion, party into the early hours or even hit the beach. And thanks to its ever-expanding public transport system, it’s easier than ever to explore the city. So hop on a commuter ferry across the Bosphorus, grab a cup of Turkish tea and stare in wonder at one of the most gloriously situated cities on earth — these are the best things to do in Istanbul.
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1. Marvel at the Hagia Sophia’s dome
Constructed in the 6th century, Hagia Sophia was once the world’s largest interior space. Even today, its central dome remains a showstopper — soaring to 180ft and adorned with glittering mosaics. While it was originally built as an Orthodox cathedral, it has changed function multiple times and is currently a working mosque; visitors must abide by the dress code and can only enter outside prayer times. Unfortunately, that also means the mosaics are often covered up, but even that can’t detract from the sheer majesty of its interior.
2. Imagine you’re a sultan at Topkapi palace
Topkapi was the seat of the Ottoman Empire for nearly four centuries and it’s the ultimate place to indulge any Middle Eastern royalty fantasies as you wander through opulent courtyards and pavilions. Reserve a day to see it properly — there are several small museums within the palace itself as well the faithfully preserved interiors to poke around in, and the complex is set in a peaceful park with views over the Bosphorus and Sea of Marmara. It’s also where you’ll find the Istanbul Archaeology Museum. Don’t miss the tucked-away harem quarters, where the sultan’s concubines lived (together with the eunuch slaves who served them) in surprisingly sumptuous surroundings.
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3. Go shopping in the bazaars
The Grand Bazaar, a huge covered arcade built in the 15th century, is said to be the oldest shopping centre in the world. Its charm stems from the fact that it is still a working hub, particularly in the gold-trading, antiques and wholesale textiles sections, where you’ll stumble across plenty of great deals. You’ll also find bargains in the spice bazaar next door, but it’s best to go elsewhere for rugs or other tourist souvenirs. Don’t be afraid to just walk past the hawkers — once you acknowledge them, it’s difficult to break away until you’ve bought something. If you do part with your cash, make sure to haggle. The shops are open 10am-4pm, Monday to Saturday.
4. Delve into an underground world at the Basilica Cistern
A complex network of cisterns brought water from the Belgrade Forest on the outskirts of Istanbul into the heart of the city in Byzantine times. This one, built in the 6th century, has been restored and opened up to the public, complete with atmospheric lighting, music and ornamental fish swimming under your feet as you navigate the walkways between its ancient columns. The star attraction is tucked away at the back — two stone heads of the snake-haired monster Medusa, pillaged from an ancient Greek city and casually repurposed as plinths.
5. Watch the sunset on Kadikoy corniche
Take a ferry to the Asian side of the city, turn right as you exit and walk for ten minutes to the rocks that line the corniche. You’ll be rewarded with views of the historic peninsula, wrapped in a cloak of amber and red as the light fades. In the summer this place is packed, and you’ll be joined by buskers belting out Turkish tunes. The laid-back vibe of this area means you can bring a beer to enjoy too.
6. Marvel at the Dolmabahce Palace
This was one of the last palaces built in the Ottoman empire, and is certainly one of the most beautiful, occupying a prime piece of Bosphorus-adjacent real estate and set in lush manicured gardens. It is still a centre of power and the Turkish president often uses it to host visiting foreign dignitaries. Head inside and you’ll see why: the opulence of its interior is striking, and there’s a 4.5-tonne crystal chandelier in the main ballroom. By contrast, the adjoining annex where Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the Turkish republic who died in 1938, feels rather threadbare.
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7. Take a boat trip down the Bosphorus
Leave the expensive tourist boats to the Istanbul amateurs and instead hop on one of the passenger ferries that, for the locals, is just another form of public transport — albeit arguably the best in the world. There are routes that zig-zag from one end of the strait to the other, a journey that will take a couple of hours and cost you just a few lira (and give you the option of hopping off if any of the stops take your fancy).
8. Spend a day island-hopping
The Princes’ Islands, a volcanic archipelago in the Sea of Marmara, are just an hour by ferry from central Istanbul. Wander among the whitewashed wooden mansions, spend a day on one of the pebble beaches, or, if you want to see how the Istanbul elites spend their summer, book a room in one of the luxury hotels or clubs. There are no cars on the islands, so catch one of the electric minibuses that have replaced the overworked horses.
9. Lose an evening in a meyhane
These fish restaurants are the quintessential Istanbul dining experience. Large groups of friends gather around a bottle (or several) of raki, Turkey’s famous aniseed spirit, and dive into towering plates of mezze before sharing a huge seabass. Accompanied by traditional Turkish music, in the space of an evening you’ll laugh, sing, and perhaps cry a few melancholy tears — it’s all part of the meyhane culture. Ask the waiter for recommendations but watch out for them delivering orders you didn’t ask for — it’s a classic meyhane manoeuvre.
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10. Wander down Istiklal
There is no way of avoiding this mile-long pedestrian promenade — it runs through the heart of the modern city, from the Galata Tower to Taksim Square, and is an open-air performance space for buskers and fashionistas alike. The shops that bracket it are nothing special, with a few international chains and lots of cheap local brands, but it’s the atmosphere that you come for. Grab a coffee and spend an hour people-watching — you’ll see every flavour of Istanbul life here. If you’re feeling lazy, take the nostalgia-invoking tram that boomerangs back and forth.
11. Sample the street food
Istanbul’s tastiest cuisine is bought from the pavement and eaten with your hands. Midye dolma (mussels stuffed with spiced rice), balik ekmek (grilled mackerel sandwich) and sut misir (sweetcorn either on the cob or in a paper cup) are arguably the most delicious treats. You’ll also see sellers wandering the streets with trolleys teetering with fresh fruits, which change according to the season, and simitci, who sell sesame crusted bread rings from trays they carry on their heads.
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12. Wander the backstreets of Balat
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This Roma neighbourhood on the Golden Horn has become something of a hipster destination over the past decade thanks to its Instagram-worthy, brightly painted houses and steep cobbled streets. Happily, though, gentrification is still far off, mainly because it’s so off the beaten track — you’ll need a map to get here on foot from the nearest public transport stops. There are several lovely independent coffee shops and vintage stores, but you’ll still feel as if you’re stepping into an unknown part of the city. If you’re really lucky, you might catch one of the area’s huge weddings, when everyone pours out onto the streets to party to the raucous music of the gypsy bands.
13. Stroll across the Galata bridge
This short, shallow arch connects the historic peninsula to the modern heart of Istanbul across the Golden Horn, a small tributary flowing into the Bosphorus. The structure itself is nothing special, but this is more than just a bridge: it encompasses a row of lively seafood restaurants and serves as a prime spot for the city’s fishermen. Come here to mingle with the locals and pause to watch the passenger ferries chugging back and forth from the ports on either side.
14. Treat yourself to a hammam
There’s nothing quite like a hammam Turkish bath and the place to experience it in Istanbul is Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami. Built by Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan — the man who also built Suleymaniye Mosque — this historic bathhouse dates back to 1580. It was originally commissioned by Kilic Ali Pasa to serve the mariners of Tophane, and today it offers a traditional hammam experience to locals and tourists alike. The bathhouse is open to women in the morning and men in the afternoon, and you will need to book in advance.
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15. Get an open air history lesson at Sultanahmet Square
If you didn’t know any better, Sultanahmet Square is just a bit of open space near the Hagia Sophia. However, buried a couple of metres below its surface are the remains of the Hippodrome of Constantinople, which traces its history back to the Roman period. Hippodromes of the time were built for chariot races, and were a symbol of the wealth and power of an empire. By some estimates, the Hippodrome of Constantinople was large enough to seat some 40,000 people. The only visible sign of this once-great monument are the decorations that successive rulers imported from all over the empire, like the Obelisk of Theodosius, which once stood in the Temple of Karnak in Luxor, and the Serpent Column — part of a sacrificial tripod in Delphi.
16. Relax in the courtyard of the Suleymaniye Mosque
In the middle of a chaotic city of nearly 16 million people, the courtyards of the historic mosques are oases of calm with soundtracks of tinkling fountains and birdsong. The Suleymaniye Mosque, considered the masterpiece of the Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan, is overlooked by tourists who flock to the nearby Blue Mosque. It shouldn’t be: its white marble-paved courtyard and the gardens surrounding the complex are an unmatched spot to catch a breather. Inside, you’ll find captivating examples of Islamic art everywhere, including the classic Iznik blue tiles and intricate wooden shutters inlaid with mother of pearl.
17. Climb the Galata Tower
This cylindrical lookout was one of Istanbul’s tallest structures for centuries and is located in one of the best spots in the city. Soak up panoramic views across the water from its viewing deck — you can beat the crowds by coming early or time your trip to catch the sunset. If you’re in town for a few days, consider investing in the Istanbul Museum Card — it will cover your entrance fee as well as all the other big attractions.
18. Take in some art at Istanbul Modern
Istanbul Modern hits the spot for art lovers who want to delve beyond the Ottoman designs the city is famous for. The gallery’s permanent collections include photography and fine art from some of the world’s best-known creators, while the exhibitions showcase Turkey’s best contemporary artists. There are also regular film screenings and an extensive library that’s open to the public.
istanbulmodern.org
19. Recover over a long Turkish breakfast
At the other end of the day, breakfast is also a big event in Turkey. The classic offering includes egg dishes, fried sausage, lots of different cheeses, salad, spicy dips and bread, followed up with sweet items like honey and jams. Set aside a couple of hours to indulge, and wash it all down with lots of tea — often a bottomless part of the deal. If you are looking for something smaller, menemen — Turkish scrambled eggs with vegetables — is a quick, cheap and tasty option that you’ll find served almost everywhere.
20. Soak in the atmosphere at a football match
Istanbul is home to Turkey’s “big three” clubs — Fenerbahce, Galatasaray and Besiktas — which, while not in the same league as Europe’s big clubs, command devotion and fanaticism. With a bit of planning it’s possible (and extremely cheap) to attend a match — you just need to apply online for a “Passolig,” which then allows you to buy a ticket. Even if you’re not mad about football, the flares, chanting and singing inside the stadiums guarantee a thrilling 90 minutes.
passolig.com.tr
21. Relax in Emirgan Park
Istanbul is short on green spaces but Emirgan Park is one of the biggest and best in the city. It’s a short bus ride from Taksim and offers sweeping views over the Bosphorus. There are picnic tables and plenty of areas to stretch out on the grass in summer, and lots of stray cats who’ll come and say hello. It’s also one of the few places in the city that’s truly kid-friendly, with plenty of playgrounds and a lake. In April, it transforms into one of the main locations for the annual tulip festival: make room on your camera roll for a sea of kaleidoscopic blooms.
22. Hunt for a bargain in the flea markets
Istanbul’s “eskici” — literally translating to “the collectors of old things” — wander around the streets with their wooden trolleys, shouting out to locals to bring down anything they are chucking out. Often, there is a treasure to be found nestled among the items, like a trinket, book or vintage item of clothing. If you catch an eskici on the street you can buy directly from them, but these magpies take most of their wares to the numerous junk shops and flea markets. Prices are far lower than in London, but be aware that there are customs procedures if you want to take any real antiques home.
23. Spot graffiti in the backstreets
Istanbul isn’t known as a street-art capital, but it deserves to be: a number of local talents have emerged in recent years, each with their own distinctive style. Canavar paints sketchy insects, while at the other end of the spectrum, Gamze Yalcin creates mystical beasts in rainbow colours. You’ll find various maps and tours to guide you around the scene, but aim to start in the Kadikoy neighbourhood on the Asian side of Istanbul, where the local council supports artists to create towering murals on otherwise drab blocks.
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Additional reporting by Qin Xie
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