Everyone loves London in the sun — but there are just as many reasons to visit when the weather’s less than perfect. Sure, you may be less inclined to stroll through a park, but there are an almost overwhelming number of indoor activities to try, museums to visit, shows to see and restaurants to sample. Rainy days in London never equal boredom, thanks to the capital’s stylish shops and department stores, fascinating stately homes, collections of oddities and huge selection of cosy pubs. There’s also something for every budget. My book, Rainy Day London, rounds up 100 options, but my favourites change with the seasons. Here are the best things to do in London when it rains.
Main photo: sculpture at the V&A (Alamy)
1. Gordon’s Wine Bar, Embankment
Hidden in a subterranean vault with curved ceilings and tables lit by flickering candlelight, Gordon’s Wine Bar is the perfect spot to escape the elements. Opened in 1890 and thought to be London’s oldest wine bar, this city stalwart feels like a time capsule. The walls are covered in framed historical newspaper clippings, including one from Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. As well as a cosy ambience, come for the wine selection, which ranges from full-bodied French reds to natural orange wines, sherry and port.
gordonswinebar.com
2. Horniman Museum & Gardens, Forest Hill
There’s no shortage of things to see at this kid-friendly museum in Forest Hill, but the giant stuffed walrus is one of its most popular exhibits. Once you’re done admiring the overstuffed marine mammal (Victorian taxidermists thought they needed to get all the wrinkles out of its skin), you can explore the rest of the natural history collection, as well as art, textiles and archaeological materials from around the world. There’s also an aquarium and a butterfly house — a tropical indoor garden filled with free-flying butterflies and moths.
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horniman.ac.uk
3. Daunt Books, Marylebone
This charming Edwardian shop was taken over by James Daunt in 1990 and specialises in literature and travel books. With dark wooden balconies, ornate green lamps, a stained glass window, a conservatory ceiling and, of course, tall shelves stacked with books, it’s a strong contender for London’s prettiest bookshop. Titles are arranged by country, with a selection that includes guidebooks, fiction, history, travelogues and more.
dauntbooks.co.uk
4. The Drapers Arms, Islington
It’s a great pub whatever the weather, but the Drapers Arms comes into its own on a rainy day, with friendly staff, candlelit tables and fireplaces creating a homely feel. Its horseshoe-shaped bar has a selection of beers and ales on tap and there’s also an extensive wine list. The food menu varies, but there’s usually a meaty, suet-crust pie and tempting options for veggies and pescatarians too. If you just fancy a drink, plonk yourself on a sofa and check out the board games and Penguin Classics.
thedrapersarms.com
5. V&A, South Kensington
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What do Charles Dickens’ pen case, Mick Jagger’s jumpsuit and Henry VIII’s desk have in common? They’re all part of the V&A’s magnificent collection, which spans 5,000 years of art and design. Established in 1852 in Pall Mall, it was originally called the slightly less catchy Museum of Manufactures. It became the Victoria and Albert Museum in 1899, when Queen Victoria laid the foundation stone of one of its new buildings at South Kensington. Decades later, it’s still one of the world’s top museums, hosting blockbuster temporary shows alongside a vast permanent collection.
6. Rough Trade West, Notting Hill
When it first opened in 1976, this west London record shop had an anti-establishment and egalitarian ethos, making it well-placed to champion the burgeoning punk movement. Eventually, it launched its own independent record label. But in 1982, the business got into trouble and the shop’s employees bought it and relocated to Talbot Road, where it still stands today. There’s a bigger branch of Rough Trade in east London, but with its punk posters and records by the Clash on the walls, there’s a certain charm about the Notting Hill shop.
roughtrade.com
7. Chesham Arms, Hackney
There’s a lot to love about this Hackney pub on a quiet residential street. A vibrant atmosphere, local beer and the option to order in from Yard Sale Pizza, for a start. With its eclectic decor, fireplaces and a higgledy-piggledy stack of board games, the vibe here is cosy and welcoming. And that’s before you get into its heartwarming backstory. Back in 2012, a plan to turn it into flats sparked a two-year legal battle by the Save The Chesham group, as the community came together to protect it. Pop in for a drink and you’ll see why the locals fought to keep it going.
cheshamarms.com
8. God’s Own Junkyard, Walthamstow
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Filled with luminous treasures, God’s Own Junkyard was set up by renowned neon artist Chris Bracey, who started out by making signs for Soho’s bars and strip clubs in the 1970s and 1980s. He went on to make neon props for Hollywood films, working with the likes of Stanley Kubrick, Tim Burton and Christopher Nolan. Bracey passed away in 2014, but this Walthamstow warehouse stuffed with his creations celebrates his legacy. And despite all those neon lights presumably running up an eye-watering electricity bill, it’s free to visit.
godsownjunkyard.co.uk
9. Kiln, Soho
Forget gas or electricity — in the open kitchen at this narrow Soho restaurant, almost everything is cooked in a wood-burning kiln oven or on flame-powered grills, making it an excellent place to warm up if you’ve been caught in a downpour. Kiln’s Thai-inspired menu of spicy and fragrant dishes should also help take the chill off. Be warned: the spice level isn’t for the faint-hearted, but they can adapt dishes if you want to take it down a notch.
kilnsoho.com
10. Kenwood House, Hampstead Heath
On the edge of picturesque Hampstead Heath sits Kenwood House, a grand stately home dating back to the 17th century. This striking building has been home to various aristocrats, including Lord Mansfield, his great-niece Dido Belle, and Edward Guinness. The house is now run by English Heritage and you can dig into its past on a fascinating highlights tour. Expect to see antique furniture, sculptures and jewellery, as well as artworks by the likes of Rembrandt and Reynolds.
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english-heritage.org.uk
11. Roti King, Battersea
Since it first opened in 2014 on an unassuming backstreet in Euston, Malaysian restaurant Roti King has developed a cult following. The only downside of its success is that there’s often a big queue. Thankfully, there’s now a second, much bigger site across the river at Battersea Power Station. There’s a selection of noodle and rice dishes but really, you’re here for one thing: the roti canai (Malaysian flatbread), which is flaky, buttery and delicious. Try a filled roti stuffed with cheese or meat, or have it unadulterated and use it to scoop up a flavourful kari.
rotiking.com
12. Happiness Forgets, Shoreditch
Don’t be alarmed if you get to the spot where Happiness Forgets is on a map and you can’t find it. You’ll need to head down the stairs from street level to access this basement boozer next to Hoxton Square. Once inside, you’ll see dark red brick walls, moody lighting and a very well stocked bar. Take a pew on a comfy sofa or booth, or grab a seat at the bar to watch the talented mixologists do their thing. Expect top-class drinks that offer a twist on classics, such as a negroni made with olive vermouth, or a Tokyo Collins with yuzu sake and grapefruit juice.
happinessforgets.com
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Rainy Day London by Isabelle Aron (Quadrille, £12.99) is available now
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